That Philadelphia Freedom |
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Traveler had a few unscheduled days.
Ahh freedom! So where was Traveler to go? Visitors from abroad always
rave about two American cities—Las Vegas, because it's, well, crazy; and
Philadelphia, because it's beautiful and its got an old culture imbued
with a certain slowness and softness. It’s civilized here. It's a big,
small town. And it’s the birthplace of American independence. Where
better to celebrate freedom than Philadelphia.
The city was born in 1682. Its founder
was English Quaker William Penn. Instead of naming the place after a
corporation, as is the habit these days (Staples City? CapitalOneville?),
he named it "city of brotherly love." (Only he did it in a sort of
Greek.)
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Traveler promised himself he would not
mention the Rocky steps, the museum's front staircase. Those steps, of
course, achieved stardom for the role they played in 1976 film Rocky,
and have become a symbol of endurance and achievement. It’s about more
than climbing. When you reach the top of the stairs, you’ll see a statue
of Rocky, and a splendid view of Philadelphia.
P.S.: The Rodin Museum, located a short
walk (or shuttle ride) away from the Philadelphia Museum of Art, is
administered by the larger institution. No, you will not find the
largest collection of Picassos here; but you will find the largest
public collection of Rodin sculptures. And if there were any doubt, you
will see the iconic statue “The Thinker” right at the front gate.
He’s a decent chap; but excuse him if he doesn’t get up.
For more about the museum, click
here
Just how much wonder can you pack into
a full square city block? The answer may be found in the Franklin
Institute Science Museum.
Crammed with exhibits that delight and challenge the mind, this is one
rollicking, challenging science education that makes you want to come
back for more and more. Exhibits include Space Command,
Sir Isaac's Loft: Where Art & Physics Collide, the Franklin Art Show and
the Giant Heart (it throbs). For more information call 215.448.1200 or
click here
Welcome to the Independence National
Historical Park and Liberty Bell. This is the source. This 42-acre
park is the home of liberty and the founding principles of the United
States of America. It contains several must-sees. .
Independence Visitor Center is the portal, in a sense, to both the
national Historical Park in particular and the city of Philadelphia in
general. A helpful staff, many of who are costumed in colonial period
outfits, will direct you to exhibits, videos, kiosks, ticket windows and
will give you information about the park and the city. It's all very
jolly with lots of state-of-the-art.
Extra Treat: Imagine breaking bread with Ben Franklin. No need to think very hard about this, as a popular Independence Visitor Center fixture is "Breakfast with Ben." Every Saturday morning from 9 AM to 10:30 AM, an actor puts on the clothes, makeup and persona of old Ben and, over breakfast, holds forth on all matters of subjects drawn from "his" life and philosophy. To buy tickets or for information about Breakfast With Ben, click here.
Also in the National Park are
Independence Hall, the very site where the Declaration of Independence was signed.
Liberty Bell Center, which honors the iconic bell and its "song" of freedom.
National Constitution Center. This landmark
spot offers a thrilling tour through the highlights of liberty to mark
moments of our history. It is filled with interactive multimedia
exhibits plus photographs, texts and all sorts of items that document
the Constitution
The President's
House. This permanent
installation on the Liberty Bell Center doorstep honors nine African
slaves who toiled at the home of the nation's first Presidents George
Washington and John Adams (1790-1800)
For more information about Independence
National Park, call 215.965.2305 or click
here.
The National Liberty Museum is
new, as museums go (It opened in January, 2000 —but it honors freedom an
idea that really is as ancient as history (As described in the museum’s
mission statement) Among its holdings are over 150 original paintings, bronzes,
and glass sculptures. (Equating glass with freedom is an integral part
of the museum’s message. Exhibits emphasize essential components of
liberty and harmony321 Chestnut St. 215-9253 800
www.libertyMuseum.org
The Kimmel Center is a performing arts hive—home to the Philadelphia Orchestra, Philadanco and eight other groups (Opera Company of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania Ballet, Chamber Orchestra of Philadelphia, American Theater Arts for Youth, Philadelphia Chamber Music Society and Peter Nero and the Philly Pops)—and a work of art unto itself, with its glass roof and curving interiors.
PHOTO:
J.
Smith for
GPTMC
Free tours are available. The theater and building tour, which takes place 1 PM (Tuesday to Sunday) will lead you through the history of the Center, point out the various architectural and construction niceties, and will walk you through the Commonwealth Plaza, Perelman Theater, Verizon Hall, Merck Arts Education Center and the Dorrance H. Hamilton Garden. All in all, the tour takes one hour. On Saturdays at 10:30 AM visitors can take the free Arts and Architecture tour. This also gives an in-depth look at the building's architecture; but it also guides you along the Avenue of the Arts so that you can see how the Center has an architectural conversation with the surrounding area; and it gives you a closer look at the various works of art in the Kimmel's galleries and throughout the building. These tours are offered on a first-come first-served basis for more information call 215.790.5800 or click here kimmelcenter.org.
People first started living on Elfreth's Alley in 1702, and
people still dwell there—which makes it, according to city guides, “the
oldest continuously occupied residential street in the country.” The
Elfreth's Alley Museum, a center for tours and exhibits is located near
Second Street between Arch and Race Streets. For more information call
215.574.0560, or click
here.
Open for occupancy in 1829 as a (for that era) humane prison, the
aforementioned Eastern State Penitentiary is now in aforementioned
ruins. Traveler considers it bad luck to walk into prisons and so did
not visit. Apparently this
is a popular tourist site. For more information call 215.236.3300 or
click here
www.easternstate.org)
The Bourse
is a retail/office complex planted inside a fabulous building. It’s
definitely worth a five-minute peek inside. The retail consists mostly
of souvenir items and a food court— Sbarro, China Express, Salad Works,
etc. — a quick predictable lunch time fuel stop. Sometimes that's just
enough.
The Bourse
111 S. Independence Mall East,
*between Market and Chestnut streets.
215.625.0300
Reading Terminal Market is a foodie’s
dream. Better yet, it’s real.
In this garden of delights, you’ll find shoofly pies, apple
fritters and all sorts of Pennsylvania Dutch baked goods at Beiler’s
Bakery; Delilah’s at the Terminal, which evokes hearty visions of a
Southern cafeteria (its mac and cheese was named “Best
Macaroni & Cheese in the country by Oprah Winfrey in 2003); antipasti,
imported cheeses and stuffed Italian sandwiches at Salumeria;. vegeburgers,
tofu turkey, faux tuna fish and other vegetarian highlights at Basic
Four Vegetarian Bar. Spice Terminal stays true to its name with its
candied violets and rose petals, Komodo dragon coffee, and Russian
Caravan tea. Here’s the spot to take you on a trip around the world, on
the wings of taste and smell.
: PHOTO: J. Smith for GPTMC
And for a cup of Joe, head over to the
Old City Coffee stand. In addition to the head-clearing array of
familiar elixirs, it offers seasonal specials. Each of these is
available for one week. Spring and summer brews might include Red Sea
Blend, Burrito Brew, Bollywood Blend, and French Quarter Mélange.
Another reason to stop at Old City Coffee is to get a chance to talk
with Keith Rodemer. In addition to his advanced mastery of the art and
science of Java he is an accomplished guide and regularly runs walking
tours in Philadelphia. He happily shares tidbits and advice about
Philadelphia, while dispensing coffee to those who ask. If you don't see
him at the market you can reach him through his website
www.feeladelphiatours.com.
For more information about Old City Coffee, call 215-592-1897, or click
here. . For more information
about the Reading Market, click
here
Speaking of eating,
Traveler did some investigating on your behalf, and has good news to
report.
Located in the city’s Chinatown and looking like a generic Chinese restaurant (green wallpaper, artificial vines in the window, green prints on the wall, pink tablecloths), New Harmony is a Philadelphia treasure. It is a Chinese all-vegetarian restaurant. Whether you crave orange beef, sweet and sour pork or moo shu chicken, they’re all here; except they’re made the ethical way–without beef, pork or chicken or carne of any sort.
The diced chicken with cashew nuts comes with plenty of
vegetables—zucchini, broccoli, carrot, baby corn—and makes you want to
eat all your vegetables. This is high praise from a vegetarian. Traveler
thought there might have been a nice touch of garlic in the “chicken”
but was told it was prepared sans garlic. Either way, mm-hmm!
Also on the table were a tingling hot and sour soup and a nicely
balanced sweet and sour pork. Check out the menu
here.
135 N 9th St.
(At Cherry St) For more information, call
215.627.4520
Oh Doctor! I keep having this dream. I'm in a strange city. I walk down a street I've never been on before. Something makes me cross the street and turn the corner, and then I see it—an Indian restaurant, the Palace At The Ben. I want to enter but I'm afraid. My tongue has been burned before. But I can't help myself. I must go in. I enter from the street and discover an exquisitely designed oasis, The restaurant actually is ensconced in a cherished Philadelphia Building, Benjamin Franklin House (affectionately known as “the Ben”). The magnificent art deco building opened its doors as the Benjamin Franklin Hotel in 1925, and, after a renovation some time in the ‘80s, reemerged as a mixed-use (offices and 412 apartments) building. The Palace not only occupies a retail space but also runs the lounge in the Ben’s lobby. The restaurant setting is beautiful. Dominant colors are red and cream. Then they bring in the food. A creamy navratan korma, a rich vegetable biryani with basmati rice, loaded with cashews and golden sultanas; and a sublime baigan bhartha. Prepare yourself for heavenly food, thoughtful service and a lush setting. Nothing more need be said than a deeply felt shukria. To see the lunch menu, click here. 834 Chestnut St (At S 9th St.) For more information, call 267.232.5600 or click here.
(PHOTO
courtesy of the Palace at the Ben
The Tuscany Café
on 725 Walnut St. was a cheerful refuge from a brief shower. (Yes, it
does rain sometimes in Philadelphia.) It has a goodly assortment of
coffees and teas together with its delicious sandwiches and salads. We
had the Milano sandwich (roasted red pepper, tomatoes, fresh mozzarella
cheese, leaf lettuce and sun-dried tomato pesto) and the frog salad
(baby spinach blue cheese, walnuts, diced apples, raisins and sweet red
onion with honey mustard dressing.). For more information, call
215.625.3666
106 Chestnut Street, bet. 2nd and Front Streets in the Old Town district
Philadelphia PA 19106 tel 215 922 3676
As New World cities go, Philadelphia is very, very old. You can see it
as you walk and there‘s a lot of walking to be done. In fact,
meandering along Pine Street one evening, Traveler passed a group
engaged in a walking (and gawking) tour. They too were noting the wooden
row houses tilting this way and that — pink and cheery and brown and
white —and the cobblestoned streets and brick sidewalks of the old city
and Society Hill and the Greek Revival palaces we all passed. As you
stroll the peaceful evening streets, it is not hard to imagine Benjamin
Franklin, himself, poking around in search of a scrapple and egg
sandwich.
One particularly popular amble is along South Street. The under-25ers flock to South Street for 21 kinds of beer in one pub and Philly cheese steaks and more. South Street is sweetly tacky in a retro kind of way with tattoo parlors, hair braiding shops, lots of old-fashioned frozen custard joints, pizza stops, pink wigs in store windows and the Living Theatre (Liz Phair was on that evening that night).
If you're over 25 you'll probably prefer
the part where South Street crosses 2nd to 3rd St. and the cafés get a
bit more upmarket. Much of the culinary fare down here is fair to
passable—if you’re in the mood for fast pizza and plastic fries. That’s
like knocking the culinary aesthetics of Atlantic City . . . hardly the
point. South Street is not and should not be exactly a dining
destination; but it's fun if you're looking for a quick fuel stop.
Apparently someone bothered to do a count and we can say with some
degree of certainty that there are 300 shops along South Street most of
which are locally owned clothing stores and there are 60 restaurants
where you can have a bite or wet your beak and there’s a good mix of
theaters and live music joints.
There are loads of good shopping venues all over the place. Here are just a few of the many interesting shops.
The
Joan Shepp boutique occupies a salon with 22-foot-high ceilings
near Rittenhouse Square (a urban oasis, dating back to William
Penn). The founder Joan Shepp declares, “Fashion is supposed to be
fun.” And her offerings include stuff from Balenciaga, Yohji
Yamamoto, Rick Owens, Ann Demeulemeester, Christian Louboutin, Marni,
and D&G. 1616 Walnut Street, (215) 735-2666,
joanshepp.com
Also
near Rittenhouse Square is Leehe Fai, a boutique that
specializes in both formal frocks and everyday wear from the likes
of Trina Turk, Nanette Lepore, and Rebecca Taylor. 133 S. 18th
Street, (215) 564-6111,
leehefai.com
The
Bus Stop Boutique is an intimate (as in small) buzzy
boutique on 4th Street owned by Elena Brennan. It is a
tres, tres au courant emporium. Its fashions come from Lovely
People, Farylrobin, F-Troupe, Corso Como, Kork Ease and Terra Plana.
750 S. 4th Street, (215) 627-2357,
busstopboutique.com.
Vagabond Boutique
pioneered the offering of indie clothing and yarns on Old City’s
North 3rd Street. The pioneering continues with the
latest fashions from Twinkle by Wenlan, Anzevino and Florence, and
Built by Wendy. Also on sale are vintage garments and jewelry—as
well as items from co-owner Megan Murphy’s line, City of Brotherly
Love and co-owner Mary Clark’s Stellapop line. Vagabond Boutique,
37 N. 3rd Street, (267) 671-0737,
vagabondboutique.com
Matthew
Izzo,
located
in Old City, offers art (including works by owner Izzo); modern
furniture (including works by owner Izzo); men’s and women’s wear
Nudie Jeans, Nicole Farhi, Surface to Air and Acne Jeans. Other
items include costume and artisan jewelry; and his fun handmade
candles. 151 N. 3rd Street, (215) 829-0606,
matthewizzo.com
Also, you’ll find the antiques district along Pine Street between 9th
and 12th streets. There's a great mix of European and colonial objects
and furniture as well as Oriental rugs rare books and other desired
products. For more information, click
here.
.
Totally refreshed by Philadelphia’s respect for freedom, science and history, Traveler proceeded to ye olde Amtrak station. Separation anxiety was eased by the knowledge that Traveler would return